With colors ranging from deep red to dusty grey and surreal rock formations, the Tatacoa Desert feels like another planet. Add one of the most spectacular night skies in the world, and it’s easy to see why this is such a unique and unforgettable destination.
The Tatacoa Desert is becoming more popular, but still receives far fewer tourists than places like Salento or Tayrona National Park. So while it’s not quite off the beaten path anymore, it hasn’t lost its essence yet, offering a unique experience.
Convinced yet? In this Tatacoa Desert travel guide, I’ll share everything you need to plan your visit – including how to get there, where to stay, and the best things to do in the Tatacoa Desert.
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Table of Contents - Best Things to Do in the Tatacoa Desert
What is the Tatacoa Desert?
Unlike the name suggests, the Tatacoa desert isn’t actually a desert. But don’t let that stop you from visiting. The Tatacoa Desert is a dry forest. This means this area does receive some seasonal rainfall and is home to more biodiversity than a desert.
Where is the Tatacoa Desert?
The Tatacoa Desert is located in the Huila department, in the South of Colombia. The closest city is Neiva, and Bogotá is just over 200 km to the North and Medellín about 340 km.
What is the best time of year to visit the Tatacoa Desert
As I mentioned in the beginning of this post, the Tatacoa Desert is not a real desert, but a dry forest. This means that the Tatacoa Desert does see some rain, it even has a short rainy season!
The best time of year to visit the Tatacoa Desert is from June to August, these are the driest months. This means not only a smaller chance to get rained on while exploring the desert, but also clearer skies for stargazing.
If these months don’t fit your travel plans, December to February are also good months to visit the Tatacoa Desert. They can be a little busier though, since they coincide with the South American holidays. March and April are the months with the most rain, so you might want to try to plan your trip around these months.
How to get to the Tatacoa Desert
There are two ways to get to Villavieja, the gateway to the Tatacoa Desert. The first and most common way is by getting on a bus from Nieva. Minibuses leave from the bus terminal, but be aware that they don’t leave until late. The last one leaves around 5pm. This route makes sense if you’re coming from a place further south in Colombia, like Cali, Popayan, San Agustin or La Macarena, or from Ecuador.
If you’re coming from the North, like Bogotá or Medellín, you don’t need to travel all the way to Nieva. You can just get off at the small town of Aipe and take a ferry from here instead. It’s a bit of a walk to get from the place the bus drops you off to the ferry, so if you have heavy luggage, you might want to take a motor taxi. Ferries run from approx. 6 am to 6 pm.
It’s common for buses to get delayed in Colombia, so calculate some extra time for your connection to Villavieja. Or be prepared to spend the night in either Aipe or Nieva. We had to spend the night in Aipe and stayed at Hotel Real: a good budget option with a friendly owner, perfect for one night.
Direct buses – There are also mentions of a direct bus which goes from Nieva to other places in the Tatacoa Desert, but we couldn’t find any and our accommodation didn’t know of any such service either. If you’re staying further in the desert, you can take a tuk-tuk there.
Where to stay in the Tatacoa Desert
When visiting the Tatacoa Desert, you can choose to stay in the town of Villavieja, or stay at a more remote accommodation right in the desert. Which one is best, depends on your budget and preferences.
Staying in Villavieja is the easiest, since you can arrive here by public transport. There are also a few bars and restaurants and you can contract tours, guides or a tuk-tuk, or simply rent a bike to get around and explore the sights in Tatacoa.
For a more authentic and rural experience, stay in the Grey Desert. Accommodation is very rustic in this area, so expect simplicity. Accommodation is spread and there are no restaurants or stores in the Grey Desert, so you’ll be eating at your accommodation. There is also virtually no reception and electricity depends on solar panels, meaning it’s not 100% reliable. Although they do get a lot of sun there. But in return you will get amazing night skies and an incredibly peaceful environment. Staying in the Grey Desert is generally a bit more expensive than staying in town, and you’ll need to add the tuk-tuk drive to get to and from your accommodation to this as well, so travelers on a tight budget might want to opt for Villavieja instead.
If you do want to stay in the Grey Desert, I can recommend Hospedaje Mirador Valle de la Tatacoa. It’s a simple accommodation, with friendly owners and delicious food for a fair price considering the location. It’s also very close to the Los Hoyos trail and right in front of the Valley of the Xilópalos, the two main trails in the Grey Desert, to which I will get in the next section about the best things to do in the Tatacoa Desert. If you’re looking for a little bit more luxury, try Bio Hotel Tataco QJI Ecolodge. While still rustic, the cabins do offer a bit more comfort and there is a swimming pool where you can cool off in the hot afternoons.
The best things to do in the Tatacoa Desert
Exploring the Tatacoa Desert hiking trails and biking paths allows you to experience its many unique shapes and colors. And due to the minimal light pollution, Tatacoa Desert stargazing is another highlight not to be missed.
The red desert (Cuzco)
The red part of the desert, often referred to as the red desert, is the part closest to Villavieja. This is the busiest part of the desert, but I also found it the most beautiful with its deep red color, contrasting green cacti and diverse rock formations and textures. There is only hiking trail in this area (Cuzco).
The trail is not very long, but calculate some extra time to complete it. You’ll want to really soak in the beautiful surroundings and take plenty of pictures.
The best time of day to plan your hike in the Red Desert is in the morning or late afternoon. The colors are at their best around sunset, but this is also the busiest time of day. So if you want a more quiet experience, opt for a morning hike.
The trail is public and there is no entrance fee (at the time of writing).
The Grey Desert
If you keep heading further away from Villavieja, you’ll notice a change in colors and you’ll see the desert turn grey. This part of the Tatacoa Desert is called the Grey Desert. There are several hiking trails in the Grey Desert, most of them privatized.
Los Hoyos
The Los Hoyos hike is the most famous and most visited part of the Grey Desert. In fact, the Grey Desert is often referred to as Los Hoyos, but this is only a section.
Los Hoyos is a private area, where you can hike a short trail and/or refresh in the pool. The entrance fee for the trail is 2.000 COP, and for the pool 10.000 COP at the time of writing). The Los Hoyos trial is shorter than the Cuzco trail, and I found the landscape a little bit less impressive as it is more barren. But there are still very interesting rock formations and different textures along the trail, making this hike worth it.
Valley of the Xilópalos
Xilópalos are fossilized trees, and that’s what this trail is named after. I didn’t do this trail myself, so I can’t give you a first hand review of it, but it seems like a nice hike to do if you have time. Many travelers have reported that the trails are not well marked though and they recommend a guide. Mapy.com shows the trail as well though, so you can also follow that one.
The area is private and the entrance fee is 3.000 COP (at the time of writing).
Rainbow mountains
Those who really want to go off the beaten track can head to the Rainbow Mountains. We biked there from our accommodation Mirador de la Valle de Tatacoa, and even that was quite the trip with ups and downs. We were told it was “very close” by the owner’s friend, but he clearly never biked it. 🙈 I can see how it’s close when you’re driving a 4×4 though haha.
I wouldn’t say these mountains are a highlight, I thought the Cuzco and Los Hoyos areas were more impressive. But it’s something nice and interesting to do if you have some extra time and there will likely not be any other tourists at all!
Stargazing
Of course stargazing cannot be missed in the list with the best things to do in the Tatacoa Desert! You can visit an observatory and learn more about the planets and constellations, or just find a place free of light pollution and enjoy the night sky yourself. Since we had already done the Stargazing tour in San Pedro de Atacama and we were staying at a remote place in the Grey Desert, we chose the second option.
This was: Best Things to Do in the Tatacoa Desert: Your Complete Travel Guide
The Tatacoa Desert is one of Colombia’s most surreal landscapes — and whether you come for the colors, the hikes, or the stars, you’re bound to leave amazed. I hope this guide helps you plan an unforgettable trip! And for more Colombia travel tips, check out my other Colombia articles.
What was your favorite part of the Tatacoa Desert? Share it with us in the comments below?
FAQ about the Tatacoa Desert
The Tatacoa Desert lies in south-central Colombia’s Huila department, about 38 km north of Neiva.
Most travelers spend at least one night (two days) in the desert to cover the Red and Grey sectors and enjoy an evening of stargazing, but it’s better to spend 2-3 nights to soak in the atmosphere and explore at a more relaxed pace. Also keep in mind that it gets very hot during the day, so you’ll want to explore the desert in the early morning and late afternoon.
Besides the usual travel items, you’ll need breathing but protective clothing against the sun, sunscreen, hiking shoes and cash. There is only one ATM in Villavieja, and none in the desert itself.
Generally speaking, yes – crime is very low here and locals are accustomed to tourists, making the desert safer than Colombia’s larger cities. Having said that, apply common-sense precautions when exploring: stay hydrated, use sun protection, watch your step around local wildlife (e.g., spiders, snakes), and if you come back after sunset, carry a headlamp and stick to inhabited areas.
Absolutely. Despite its remote location, Tatacoa’s dramatic landscapes, and minimal light pollution create an otherworldly experience few Colombian destinations can match.