Snowcapped mountains, crystal clear blue lakes, and lots of glaciers. Patagonia is a top destination for good reasons and should not be missed on any South American itinerary.
One month is the perfect time to spend in Argentine Patagonia/the lake district. Distances are big (like, huge) but with a month it’s all manageable and you’ll have plenty of time to enjoy the beautiful landscapes.
We’ll start our itinerary in Bariloche, in the lake district, and make our way down to Ushuaia: El fin del Mundo (the end of the world) as it’s the city the closest to Antarctica, the most southern city in the world. From here you can take a flight back to Bariloche/Buenos Aires, or cross over to Chile and make your way up through Chilean Patagonia.
Bariloche - 1 week
Day 1 - Arriving and exploring town
Take this day to settle in and explore Bariloche. Go for a stroll through the center, take the pedestrian street, and head to the lake. The shore makes for a great place to enjoy a snack and take in the views, or simply keep walking.
Day 2 - Llao Llao/Circuito Chico
The Circuito Chico at hotel Llao Llao can be hiked or biked. Take a bus from town if you want to hike, or rent a bike in town and make your way there by bike. There are some viewpoints that can only be reached by foot, but the circuit itself can all be done by bike. The whole circuit is about 25 km, making it perfect for a day trip.
Day 3 - Colonia Suiza
If you’re not from Europe, this little Swiss-style town could be a nice day out. If you’re from Europe, you might not be so impressed/looking for something different to do. I didn’t go myself, but the people I spoke to who went enjoyed their day there.
Day 4 - Refugio Frey
If you have camping gear and are up for a multiple day hike, add 3 more days and do the 4-day Refugio Frey trail. If you only have one day, I highly recommend taking the ski lift up from Catedral. From here you can hike to Refugio Frey over the mountain ridge and hike down. The ski lift is expensive (current prices in link), but it’s worth it. The hike is beautiful and just hiking up and down to Refugio Frey does not give the same views over the mountains.
Day 5-7 Roadtrip along the 7 lakes lake route
For your last days, team up with some fellow travelers and rent a car to travel along Ruta 40 (Route 40) aka The 7 Lakes Route for 2-3 days. We opted for 2 days and made it to San Martin de Los Andes the first day, making plenty of stops on the way. On day 2 we made our way back to Bariloche stopping at Villa La Angostura to hike Los Arrayanes national park.
Two days is ok, but we felt a little rushed. I recommend taking a third day to explore more of San Martin de Los Andes and maybe even drive a little further up. If you have more time, you can of course add more days and explore even more of this beautiful area
Note that Los Arrayanes national park is only accessibly for hikers between 09:00 and 11:00, as the park closes at 15:00 and it’s about 6 hours return to the tip of the peninsula. If you don’t want to walk there and back, you can take a boat from the tip of the peninsula back to town as well. For current schedule and prices see Futaleufu and Patagonia Argentina.
Where to stay in Bariloche
It’s a little bit more expensive, but I recommend staying at Penthouse 1004, even if it’s just for a night or 2. This hostel is located on the 25th floor of a building which is a block away from the lake. Views are awesome! They tend to book out, so do book ahead if you can. If you’re looking for something cheaper for the rest of your stay, check out La Justina, Hopa-Home, or Universal Traveller’s hostel.
Where to eat in Bariloche
Parilla Alto el Fuego is an abusolute must! If you’re not a meat-lover, their trout is delicious as well. Cerveceria Manush has great food and beer as well.
As for dessert, my favorite chocolate ever is at Rappa Nui. Try their chocolate ice cream as well.
El Bolson - 3 days
El Bolson is a small hippie-town, about 2 hours south of Bariloche. There is some amazing hiking you can do in the area, but unfortunately, you need a car or taxi to get to most of them. So team up with fellow travelers in the hostel and organize transport together.
Day 8 - Travel to El Bolson
Take a bus from Bariloche in the morning (more details below) to arrive here late morning/early afternoon. Use the afternoon to explore the town. It’s not big, so you don’t need a lot of time. Make sure to visit the regional market El Bolson is most famous for. If you arrive early, you can even walk to Cerro Amigo for a view over the town.
Day 9 - Hike Bosque Tallado cerro Piltriquitrón
This hike required a car/taxi, so team up with fellow travelers in the hostel to split costs and enjoy this day together. Drive/take a taxi up to Bosque Tallado (carved forest), famous for its wooded statues. It was nice, but I kind of expected something more of it as so many people recommended it. From here, walk to Refugio Piltriquitron (Piltriquitron shelter). The walk takes about 20 min when conditions are good. Register here before heading up. Note that the hike is free, it’s just a safety precaution that all hikers heading further than the Refugio need to register when starting their summit and when back.
It’s possible to walk to El Bosque Tallado as well, but you won’t have enough time to continue past Refugio Piltriquitrón and make it back the same day if you do so. If you’re only interested in visiting El Bosque Tallado and maybe enjoy a hot drink while overlooking the mountains at the Refugio, this is an option however. You can also take a taxi up, saving yourself a nearly 5-hour climb, and walk down (about 2 hours). Another option is staying overnight at the Refugio and making this a multiple-day hike.
Day 10 - Cajon del Azul
A lovely hike along a river. Note that you need a car/taxi to get to the start of this trail (Wharton) as well. You can hike as far as you want, making it into a multiple-day track. We walked to the Cajon de Azul/Refugio, had a craft beer, and made our way back. Note that there is no phone signal here, so if coming by taxi, you’ll need to ask at Wharton if they can call one for you or connect to the wifi there and order one.
Where to stay in El Bolson
The one and only place to be in El Bolson is La Casona de Odile. The atmosphere and facilities are great and there is a beautiful garden to relax in as well. It’s like a home away from home. The only downside is that it’s quite far out of town (5 km), although that also gives it its charm. There are busses going to and from the center leaving every hour. Find the bus stop in front of the tourist center. If you’re a group, a taxi is more convenient.
How to get to El Bolson from Bariloche
El Bolson is a 2-hour busride from Bariloche. As both are very touristy and close to each other, transport is frequent throughout the day. Check the schedule here beforehand, but I recommend buying the ticket in cash at the terminal, as this is generally a lot cheaper.
Inflation and the Blue rate – Note that due to Argentina’s high inflation rate, a second, unofficial exchange rate exists: The Blue rate. When changing money, always try to get the blue rate. You’ll get double the pesos for your dollar/euro/etc. Banks will always charge the official rate so do NOT pay by card/take out money from ATMs unless there is no other way. Avoid ATMs especially, as they will charge you an incredibly steep fee on top.
Get cash by sending money to yourself using services like Western Union or Azimo instead. They’ll change your money based on the blue rate and you can usually pick your cash up within minutes from a nearby location. Which one is favorable differs per situation so check both and decide which one is best for you. If you choose to use Azimo, you can get a € 5 voucher using the code MARLOUV934M88.
El Calafate - 2 days
El Calafate is home to the famous glacier Perito Moreno. You might think you’ve seen glaciers before, but you’ve seen nothing like this! Not only can you get super close to Perito Moreno, this glacier is also known for its calving. It’s not uncommon to see parts break off and fall into the water (calving). An amazing sight and together with the noise you will certainly leave this place impressed.
Day 10 & 11 Travel to El Calafate
El Calafate doesn’t have much more to offer besides Perito Moreno. So if you arrive early, just use this day to settle in and go for a stroll along the lake. If you’re a runner, it’s a beautiful run as well. If you want to visit Perito Moreno with an organized tour/shuttle service, organize this today as well.
Day 12 - Perito Moreno
A must-visit for everyone. Tours and transport can be rather expensive, so we decided to go on our own and hitchhike. We got a ride there but were unlucky getting a ride back. Luckily we found a tour operator with spare seats, who agreed to take us back for a small fee.
For more information about the national Park where Perito Moreno is located, click here.
Where to stay in El Calafate
Anywhere close to the bus terminal will do. As you won’t spend a lot of time in town/the hostel, the most important is a good location. Busses to and from both El Chalten, El Bolson, and Perito Moreno leave from the terminal, so this is where you want to be at. Have a look at booking sites like Agoda to see what’s on offer.
How to get to El Calafate from El Bolson
It’s about 1300 km from El Bolson to El Calafate, so prepare yourself for a long drive/bus ride or consider taking a flight.
By bus: At the time of writing, Marga Taqsa is the only one offering this route. Don’t forget to buy your ticket at the terminal and pay in cash, don’t buy it online. The ride takes about 25.5 hours.
By plane: As it’s a long therefore expensive bus ride, check Skyscanner for flights. A flight might not only be a lot quicker, if booked in advance, flying can also be cheaper. Do note that El Bolson doesn’t have an airport, the airport of Bariloche is the closest.
By car: Note that El Bolson is actually further north than El Calafate. So if driving, it makes sense to change these two destinations around. The drive alone is 16+ hours along route 40 with not much to see along the way. The most common overnight stop is the town of Perito Moreno (which has nothing to do with the glacier) to visit de Cueva de las Manos (Cave of hands).
El Chalten 6-12 days
El Chalten was my favorite place in Patagonia. The best thing about the hikes here is that they are not only stunning, they are also very easily accessible from town. No car or taxi needed for most of them! If you’ve got your own camping gear (or are willing to rent), I recommend 12 days in El Chalten. If not, you can do the day trips in 6 days.
12 Days hiking and camping in El Chalten
Day 13 Travel to El Chalten + a short hike
Settle in and get ready for your 6-day hiking circuit tomorrow. If you arrive early enough, do a short hike to either El Chorillo del Salto (waterfall, 2.5 hours return) or Mirador de Los Cóndores (Condor viewpoint, about 1.5 hour return).
Day 14 - 6-day hiking circuit
This circuit takes you to El Chalten’s most visited lakes, Lago de los 3 (the iconic view of Fitzroy) and Laguna Torre. Besides this, you’ll get to see many more awesome lakes, glaciers and other awesome views. This hike was my favorite part of Argentine Patagonia. Find more details about this and a shorter hiking circuit here.
Day 20 rest/short hike
You’ve done a lot of hiking in the past few days, so take a well-deserved rest. Fill your tank with awesome food and beer and if you get bored, hike to El Chorillo del Salto or El Mirador de Los Cóndores.
Day 21 Lago del desierto
This is an easy day as well. If you have your own transport, you can reach Lago del Desierto on your own. If not, you can try to hitchhike or go by shuttle, which is what we did. Shop around for prices, as you might be able to get a good deal somewhere a day before if they need to fill up spaces. The shuttle takes you to the Hostería Punta Sur and from here you can choose how you want to spend your time here. You can either walk along the lake, take a boat tour, or hike to Glacier Huemul.
Day 22 & 23 Laguna Toro
After getting some rest during the past two days, it’s time for another camping trip. I loved the track to Laguna Toro! It offered some of the most beautiful views in the area and we didn’t come across a lot of people. If you’re an experienced climber, you can continue to and over the glacier, which is what most people come here for.
Day 24 - Enjoy town and head to El Calafate
Whether you’re bussing or flying to Ushuaia, you’ll first need to make your way to El Calafate and make your way from there. If driving, you’ve probably visited El Chalten before El Calafate, so you’d be making your way to El Calafate as well.
If you’re on a tight schedule, you could leave on day 23 after the hike as well. If not, I recommend taking it easy and enjoying a bed and a shower before your long trip to Ushuaia. The beer here in El Chalten is better anyway. 😉
El Chalten 5 days staying in town
Day 13 Travel to El Chalten + short hike
Take a bus in the morning from El Calafate, so you’ll have time to do a short hike in the afternoon. Settle in and get ready for your hike tomorrow. You can opt for El Chorillo del Salto (waterfall, 2.5 hours return) or Mirador de Los Cóndores (Condor viewpoint, about 1.5 hour return).
Day 14 - Laguna Torre
We’ll start with the lighter one of the two iconic hikes, as a warm-up for tomorrow. The hike to Laguna Torre is about 19 km and 6 hours return. Make sure to calculate in extra time for breaks, lunch, and exploring the area around the lake.
Day 15 - Lago de los 3
This is the most iconic hike in El Chalten. Leave early as it is quite a hike there and back: about 25 km and 8.5 hours just walking time. As you want to take some breaks along the way, have lunch and enjoy the beautiful views at the lake, count on 10 – 11 hours for the trip.
Day 16 - Lago del Desierto
Give your legs a well-deserved rest today. Drive/hitchhike or take organized transport to Lago del Desierto. From here you can take a boat tour, go for a stroll along the lake, or hike to glacier Huemul (about 1 hour, a fee is charged to enter the trail).
Day 17 - Piedra del Fraile/Lago Eléctrico
You’ll need transport for this one as well. Drive/hitchhike/taxi or take a shuttle service to the bridge. From here it’s a beautiful 2-hour walk through the forest to Refugio and camping Piedra del Fraile. You can even stay here for the night if you like. From the Refugio you can continue to Lago Eléctrico.
Day 18 - Short hike if time permits and heading to El Calafate
Whether you’re bussing or flying to Ushuaia, you’ll first need to make your way to El Calafate and make your way from there. If driving, you’ve probably visited El Chalten before El Calafate, so you’d be making your way to El Calafate as well.
Depending on your mode of transport, you might have time for a last short hike today. If you’ve done El Chorillo del Salto on your first day, head to the Condor viewpoint today or the other way around.
Where to stay in El Chalten
If you want to go cheap, there are two budget options in El Chalten:
- Camping – We stayed at El Mochilero, which was fine. Exactly what you’d expect from a budget campsite. There are a few others around as well so it’s easy to have a look around and compare prices.
- Hostel Ahonikenk. This hostel is only for budget travelers, let’s just say there’s a reason it’s about 1/3 of the price of other hostels. A plus is that they have a (paid) luggage storage so you can leave your stuff here while you’re out on multiple-day hikes.
Not quite what you’re looking for? Have a look at booking sites like Agoda to find something that might be better suited for you. We stayed a night at Condor de los Andes, and it was 100% worth the extra $.
Where to eat in El Chalten
I feel like with food and beer, you can’t really go wrong in El Chalten. We’ve eaten at several places and all have been great! But, the very best beer I had was the Pale Ale at Fresco bar. Several people told me they have the best Pale Ale, so I had high expectations. It did not disappoint. Don’t let this stop you from trying other places though. La Birre del Rancho has great beers too, for example, and amazing views from their terrace upstairs. Other great options are La Zorra and La Vineria.
How to get to El Chalten from El Calafate
El Chalten is roughly 2.5 from El Calafate by bus. Transport is frequent throughout the day between these two touristy destinations. Check the schedule here if you want to have a look upfront, but as always, buy your ticket in cash at the terminal.
Ushuaia - 1 week
Day 25 (19) - Travel to Ushuaia and explore town
Take this day to settle in at your accommodation and explore the town. You’ll need a tour in order to visit the lighthouse, penguins, and sea lions, so have a shop around for a tour today as well. Lots of agencies offer packages with discounts, so it might be worth it to book a couple of tours at the same time.
Day 26 (20) - Beagle channel tour
This boat tour will take you to the famous Faro del Fin del Mundo (Lighthouse at the end of the world) got famous due to the novel by Jules Verne. It’s not actually at ‘the end of the world’, the Cape Horn lighthouse is the closest to Antarctica. But don’t let that little fact spoil the fun. On this boat tour, you won’t only get to see the lighthouse, but also lots of sea lions and birds, including penguins. You can pay (a lot) extra to disembark on the island where the penguins are commonly found, but we didn’t think it was worth it. The boats pull up right at the shore, so you get to see them from up close anyway, and disturb them less by staying in the boat.
Day 27 (21) - Tierra del Fuego National Park
It’s possible to visit the National Park on your own. If you have your own transport, I would recommend this. If not, you can get there by public transport (combi/van), but transport isn’t very reliable and you’ll have limited access to hiking trails from where you’ll be dropped off. As we wanted to do 2 tours in Ushuaia anyway, we decided to go for the package with 3 tours and make our lives easier.
Day 28 (22) - Beavers and Huskies
Our third tour in Ushuaia took us to a Husky shelter, lakes, and beaver dams. The tour takes half a day, so you can opt for the morning or afternoon. It’s more likely to spot beavers in the late afternoon, so we picked the afternoon tour. Do note that the husky shelter is likely closed in the afternoon so you might not be able to enter.
Did you know that beavers are not endemic to Argentina? They are actually causing a lot of damage to the landscape, as you will see.
Day 29 (23) - Glacier Martial
This is an easy daytrip from Ushuaia which requires no tours or transport. You can reach the glacier hiking from town.
The hike is about 8 km from the center of Ushuaia and takes 3.5 – 4 hours one way, about 6 hours return.
Day 30 (24) - Laguna Esmeralda
This is one of the most famous hikes in Ushuaia. We decided to skip it as we only had time for either Glacier Martial or Laguna Esmeralda, and we opted for a glacier instead of a lake and the hike was easier to manage without a tour or transport as well.
Day 31 (25) - Rest and moving on
The last day on this full on 1-month itinerary for Argentine Patagonia. Enjoy a well deserved rest, eat some amazing food and let all the experiences sink in before it’s time to leave this precious part of the world.
Where to stay in Ushuaia
We loved our Airbnb! Carmen is an amazing host and the breakfast is super tasty as well. The room is simple, no frills, but we didn’t need anything more as we were only there to sleep. It’s a little out of the center, meaning the area is quiet. The center is still within walking distance.
This was One month in Argentine Patagonia – Itinerary
Patagonia might not be cheap, or warm and sunny, even in summer, it is still one of the most beautiful places in South America, if not the world. If you love hiking, you’re gonna love Patagonia.
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