Hielo Azul is one of the most popular multiple-day hikes in the ANPRALE Reserve in El Bolson. During this hike you can get up close to Glacier Hielo Azul (Blue Ice). It’s a great introduction to multiple-day hikes as it can be completed in 2 or 3 days. There are also quite a few facilities at the mountain huts (refugios) in case you forgot something. This makes it a quite comfortable hiking experience, for which you don’t need to bring as much stuff as for many other multiple-day hikes.
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Table of Contents - How to: Hiking Hielo Azul in El Bolson
Prices in Argentina – Note that in this blogpost, I won’t put any prices. This is because Argentina’s economy is very unstable and prices change all the time. Some prices will keep a similar value in USD or EUR, but many will not and you might get the wrong idea about cost if I put current prices in this article. It’s best to check current prices upon arrival. The Mountain Information Center can tell you the fees for staying at the refugios for example.
How to get to El Bolson
El Bolson is a popular stop for those traveling to Argentine Patagonia. It is well connected by bus with other touristic places in Argentina like Bariloche, Puerto Madryn and El Chalten. El Bolson doesn’t have an airport, but Bariloche does and is only 2 hours away by bus.
Where to stay in El Bolson
By far the most popular backpacker hostel in El Bolson is La Casona de Odile. It’s a very nice hostel, with a great atmosphere, a fireplace and a beautiful green area around. The downside is that it’s not located in the center, so it’s a bit more of a hassle getting to the hiking trails, a bigger supermarket, etc. There is a bus you can take though (check the current schedule at the tourist information office) or hitch hike. If you’re a group, you can also get a taxi to get you to hiking trails directly.
If you prefer to stay more central, there are many options available in the center of El Bolson as well.
Where is Hielo Azul and how to get there from El Bolson
Hielo Azul is located in the ANPRALE reserve, close to El Bolson. It used to be possible to hike here from town, passing by Doña Rosa, which is the official name of this trail. This trail includes a hanging bridge which is currently closed though, as it is no longer save to cross. People still do, but the path is officially closed until somebody (either the owner of the land or the government) fixes the bridge. Since it’s been like this for a few years now, it’s not likely to be fixed soon. But who knows!
For now, the only (officially) open trail is the trial from Wharton. Wharton is a little further away, but there is a bus that goes from El Bolson’s center to Wharton and back a few times during the day. Check the current schedule at the Mountain Information Office or the general tourist information office.
How long does it take to hike to Hielo Azul
Well, that very much differs from person to person. If you are super fast, it’s possible to do this hike in one day. It’s quite a demanding hike though, especially if you need to start from Wharton, so I recommend spending at least one night at Refugio Hielo Azul.
Many people do this hike in 3 days, spending either two nights at Refugio Hielo Azul, or one at Hielo Azul and one at Cajon Azul. If you choose to do this hike in 3 days, you will hike to Refugio Hielo Azul on day 1. On day 2, you’ll hike to the glacier and back to Hielo Azul, with the option to continue to Cajon Azul. And on the 3rd day, you’ll walk back to Wharton, via the Cajon Azul trail.
We chose to do this hike in 2 days and that was very doable as well. It took us about 5 hours to hike from Wharton to Refugio Azul and about 1.5 to hike to the glacier. Hiking back from the glacier to the refugio also took us about 1.5 hours, as the first part heading back down is a little tricky. On the second day, it took us about 6 hours to hike from Refugio Hielo Azul to Wharton, via Cajon Azul.
When to hike Hielo Azul
Spring and autumn are definitely the best seasons to hike Hielo Azul. In summer the trail, especially the Cajon Azul part, gets incredibly busy. It’s normal to have to queue up for hours to get your registration checked and to be able to cross the hang bridges. Imagine how busy the trail gets! This is not quite the experience most people who enjoy hiking in the mountains are looking for. In winter it’s not possible to hike to Hielo Azul, due to the snow and ice.
Is Hielo Azul worth it?
Well, that depends on a few factors and everyone will need to make up their own mind regarding this. As for me, it wasn’t so much. It was one of the last stops in Patagonia, after about 6 weeks of almost pure hiking and seeing incredible landscapes. I’ve seen more impressive glaciers which required less effort. I don’t regret going though, but I have to admit that I was quite tired and it’s not a super easy hike. So I found it a lot of effort for what it was.
The season was great though, I really enjoyed the autumn colors and occasional ice crystals on the way. So if you’re excited to go on a hike, sleep in the mountains and see a glacier, it’s worth it. If you also find yourself a little tired of hiking and thinking “Do I have to, is this really something I cannot miss?”, you might want to look at one of the day trips suggested below instead. They’re less challenging and you won’t need to take so much with you.
What is the Hielo Azul hike like?
The hike itself is quite challenging, as it includes a lot of elevation gain and loss. Except for some parts, the hike is not technical though. The difficulty is mainly in the elevation gain and loss.
Generally, the path is very clear. There are also many markings on trees in the forest, so you can easily confirm you are on the right path. Only the last part of the trail heading to the glacier is very rocky without a clear path. Look for painted markers on the rocks and stone piles. They will point you in the right direction.
First day
Starting at Wharton means you need to drive or a take bus from El Bolson in the morning to the trailhead. The path starts downhill until you reach the river where you’ll need to cross two hanging bridges. Normally this is no problem, but in summer they can cause huge queues. Next, it’s almost all uphill, except for a steep downhill when you’re very close to Refugio Hielo Azul. The first part of the uphill is generally quite steep and open. There is a nice viewpoint on the way from where you can see El Bolson. It’s the perfect spot for a snack break. Once you enter the forest it gets less steep. There is just a short steep downhill when you’re about to reach the Refugio.
If you’re doing this hike in two days, I recommend pitching your tent and having lunch as soon as you arrive. Then head to the glacier. We did this hike in early April, and the ground was frozen in the morning. The hike from the Refugio to the glacier is very rocky and the last part is a little tricky as it’s basically just climbing over rocks. There isn’t a path. It was definitely doable in the afternoon, but I would not want to do this early in the morning, with frozen-over rocks. I also found the second day more tiring, so I was happy we did the glacier on the first day.
Optional extra day
If you’re staying another night in Refugio Hielo Azul, you can take it easy and hike up in the late morning or early afternoon. If you’re continuing to Cajon Azul, I wouldn’t postpone it until too late. Count on about 5 hours of hiking time, plus at least an hour to wander around the glacier and a lunch stop. There is a second lake you could get to, further up, next to the glacier (see map). There is no real path, but you can get there. Calculate some extra time if you want to go here too.
Last day
I recommend hiking back via Cajon Azul, which is a more beautiful hike than the direct trail from Wharton to Hielo Azul. You will need to backtrack a little bit, until the intersection of Wharton and Refugio Natacion. This means you’ll need to tackle the same steep hill again, this time up. The path then becomes almost flat and very easy, until you’re about 4k into your hike, Then you get another very steep and in parts slightly tricky path heading down. Once you reach the forest, the path gets less inclined and more pleasant to hike.
Once you reach the river, the path becomes even easier, with only smaller ups and downs until you reach Wharton. And beautiful views over Río Azul. Once you’re very close to Wharton, you will pass The Mystic Fog, a great place to stop for a beer if you have time left before the bus.
Preparing for your hike to Hielo Azul
Before anything, make sure to visit the Mountain Information Office (Oficina de Informes de Montaña). They have all the up-to-date information regarding which paths and refugios are open en public transport schedules. Next, when you’ve finalized your itinerary, register your hike on he ANPRALE website. Here you can also find up-to-date information, maps, and other useful information.
Make sure you have enough cash on you to pay for the accommodation and some extra in case you want food, a drink or a shower. As there is no signal at the mountain hut, they don’t take cards. They do accept foreign currency though, if you find yourself without Argentine pesos. I got a hesitant yes to my question if they accepted Euros, USD is always easier in Latin America. But it’s better to just step by a Western Union Office for a withdrawal if you think you might be a little short on cash.
Food
Make sure to bring at least one packed lunch for the first hike. You can buy food at Refugio Hielo Azul if you don’t want to bring all your meals. The Plato del dia (daily dish) in the evening is actually pretty good value. We paid not much more than we would for a meal in a cheaper restaurant in El Bolson. Portions are quite small, but you can get seconds, thirds and more if you want. They also offer drinks, including craft beer. While the daily dish is good value, snacks and breakfast items are quite expensive. So I recommend bringing at least two packed lunches and breakfast.
There is a kitchen which you can use if you want to cook your own food. You might need to wait for a while as it’s only small and the hut is quite popular. But it’s a nice option to have. You can also bring your own cooking gear (gas, camping stove, pot and cutlery), so you’re sure you don’t need to wait.
On the way back, you will pass Refugio Playita, where you can also get food, snacks and drinks. And at Wharton you will also find snacks and drinks.
Accommodation
You can choose to camp, or sleep in the mountain hut. Camping was half the price of sleeping in the hut. Regardless of where you sleep, you will need to bring a sleeping bag. Make sure it’s a good one, with a comfort zone below zero. It can get very cold up there in spring and autumn. I have a sleeping bag with a comfort zone of -5 and I was a little cold at night, which I rarely am.
The good news is that there is a fireplace in the mountain hut, so it’s nice to hang around and chat with fellow hikers in the evening. Bathrooms and showers are outside, showers are not included in the price. You will need to pay extra if you want a hot shower.
Other things to do in El Bolson
Since El Bolson is a small town in the middle of nature, most other things to do in El Bolson are hikes as well. There are many more multiple day hikes you can do in El Bolson, combining the mountain huts mentioned above in the article, and many more.
If you don’t want to sleep in the mountains, you can hike to Cajon Azul or Piltriquitron in one day. Note that you will need to have your own transport, hitchhike or take a remis (taxi with fixed rate) to the viewing platform (mirador plataforma) if you want to hike to the peak of Piltriquitron. Otherwise, it’s a very long hike for one day. Arrange for a remis back as well, as there is no phone signal, or be prepared to hitchhike or hike back to town. It’s also possible to sleep at Refugio Piltriquitron.
Less challenging and shorter hikes are the path along Río Azul from town, which you can combine with Mirador del Azul, Cerro Amigo and El Bosque Tallado (the carved forest) if you take a remis to the platform.
There is also a daily market at the main square which you can visit. Here you can find all kinds of local foods and handicrafts.
