The Albanian Alps, or the Accursed Mountains, is a mountain range located in the north of Albania, shared with Montenegro. It’s one of the highlights of many people visiting Albania. And it’s easy to see why! Here you’ll find beautiful mountain scenery, crystal-clear rivers, waterfalls, and a giant lake. The best thing is that you can combine all of this in a 2 to 4-day circular route to and from Shkoder! And when you’re well prepared this trip is actually really easy! And you will be well prepared after reading this itinerary for the Albanian Alps.
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Table of Content
- The route
- Clockwise or counterclockwise
- The clockwise itinerary
- The Counterclockwise itinerary
- Visiting the Albanian Alps as Daytrips
The Route
You might wonder if it’s really necessary to do this trip as a circuit. Well, the answer is no, but if you want to see all the sights, it is the best and most efficient way of doing so. The main highlights of the Albanian Alps are the Valbonë Pass and Lake Komani. In order to hike the Valbonë Pass, you will need to sleep at least one night in either Theth or Valbonë. You could travel back to Shkoder the next day, and do a day trip to Lake Komani another day if you really wanted.
This is what we did, as we didn’t plan well. We traveled at the end of the season and we didn’t check the ferry schedule. The last day the ferry was going for sure, was a day we had booked accommodation for already. Besides, our hotel was going to close after we left, meaning we couldn’t leave our luggage. So we did a day trip to Komani and traveled to Theth the next day for some hiking.
I wouldn’t recommend this though. It’s both easier and quicker to travel directly from Valbonë to Komani Lake. As this is a very popular route, many accommodations in Shkoder will let you leave your luggage there. (Provided it’s not the end of the season and they are going to close ;).) And if you really want to do day trips (in case you don’t want to take the ferry for example, or can’t find a place to store your luggage), I will include this option at the end as well.
Clockwise or Counterclockwise
The loop can be done both clockwise and counterclockwise. Which direction is best mainly depends on your personal preference and further travel plans. If you’re on a tight schedule and you want to complete this loop in as little as 2 days, you’ll need to do it clockwise. The transport schedule doesn’t allow the loop to be done in 2 days counterclockwise. Traveling to your next destination on the same day you’ll finish your circuit? Then you’ll have to do it counterclockwise for the same reason.
If your travel plans don’t tie you to one of these options, the best way to go about this itinerary for the Albanian Alps is clockwise in my opinion. This way you can spend a day or two hiking in Theth before doing the more challenging Valbonë pass hike. The ferry is a nice way to end your trip and give your legs a rest too. Starting the hike in Theth means that you almost immediately start hiking up, but the route keeps getting easier. Afterward, you go down and the last kilometers are almost flat. Going from Valbonë, you don’t have to hike as far up (Valbonë lies about 200m higher than Theth) but further down. I also thought the valley on the Valbonë side was (even) more beautiful than on the side of Theth and these views are best enjoyed hiking down.
I will give you itineraries for both directions below so you can compare them. If you have made up your mind already, you can jump straight to the clockwise or counterclockwise section.
The Clockwise Itinerary for the Albanian Alps
Day 1 – Getting from Shkoder to Theth
There is no regular public transport between Shkoder and Theth, but shared vans/cars leave from the center of Shkoder around 7 am. If your accommodation is centrally located, they might pick you up from your accommodation. You can discuss this with the driver when you make your reservation.
As we were staying in Shirokë (outside of Shkoder) they offered to pick us up for an extra € 5 per person. We spoke to a few people, and they all offered the same. There is no taxistand in Shirokë, and there was no reception at our accommodation to call one for us, so we just went for the easy way and took the pick-up.
We traveled to Theth with Zef (+355 68 246 8693) who was great! If you want more options, or if he’s unavailable, you can find some more numbers here. Zef included a(n optional) coffee/toilet stop and a picture stop on the way before arriving in Theth between 9-10 am, which we all really appreciated.
As you’ll arrive in Theth early, you can go hiking the same day already.
2 day itinerary
If you’re short on time and want to complete the loop in 2 days, you can start your hike to Valbonë right away. Take a packed lunch and plenty of snacks with you from Shkoder in that case, as Theth doesn’t have many options. There was only one small shop in town, which was closed most of the time we were there. We did visit at the end of the season, but better safe than sorry and arrive prepared.
If you’re doing the 2-day itinerary, skip ahead to day 3, as you will be skipping the additional hikes in Teth, and get started with the hike to Valbonë on your first day already.
3 day itinerary
If you have 3 days, you can leave your stuff at your accommodation and hike to the Blue Eye today. Make a stop at the Grunas waterfall on the way there or back as well. We didn’t actually walk all the way to Blue Eye, as it was raining in the afternoon. I’ve heard it’s really beautiful though and many people have recommended it. So if you’re up for a 6 – 7h hike (3-3.5 h one way), you can walk here. If you prefer to take it easy and save energy for the next day, Grunas is a nice spot too and you can just stop there and turn around.
4 day itinerary
If you have 4 days you can take it easy today, which is what we did. We got some work done and hitchhiked back to the viewpoint where Zef stopped on the way here, this time for sunset. You can also hike to Grunas Waterfall today and relax here, so you can go directly to the Blue Eye tomorrow and save time if you wanted to stay there longer.
Day 2 (optional) – Hike to Blue Eye
If you’re following the 4-day itinerary, I would save the longer hike to Blue Eye for today, and take it easy on your first day. That way you can start earlier and have more time to enjoy Blue Eye itself. Note that Theth doesn’t really have shops where you can buy snacks or food for a picnic, but many guesthouses offer packed lunches and there are restaurants in the town of Ndërlysaj, which you will pass on the way.
If hiking to Blue Eye sounds like a bit much to you, you can always opt for hiking as far as Grunas and head back to Theth from there. Or just see how far you get. The route itself is nice and it’s a one-way route, so you can turn around at any time and head back if you decide it’s too much.
Day 3 – Hike to Valbonë
Hiking is the only way to travel between these towns (without having to travel via Shkoder). The hike is about 17 km and takes about 7 hours to complete. We did it in 6 hours but were unlucky with the weather. So we didn’t make many stops and stayed in a hotel about 3 km before Valbonë, as we walked back the next day.
It’s a long hike, which includes quite some elevation gain and loss, so I recommend starting early. Especially if the weather is nice. There is no need to rush and there are plenty of nice places on the way for picture stops or for breaks in general. It looks like there are some places for food and drinks as well. They were closed when we were there, but you might be able to buy something during in summer. Do bring enough water and food with you just in case though! You don’t want to find yourself without food or water halfway through the hike.
Hiking from Theth to Valbonë means you’re starting with a steep uphill for the first 7-ish km. Luckily a big part of this is through the forest which will protect you from most weather conditions. Whether it’s the sun, rain, or wind you’re seeking shelter from. Once you exit the forest the views are already amazing, distracting you from the difficulty of the hike. There is less forest on the other side of the Valbonë Pass, so hiking down toward Valbonë you’ll really get to take in the views of the beautiful Valbonë Valley. And the last bit is nearly flat, so the hike just keeps getting easier. This is one of the things I quite liked about doing the hike in this direction.
Once you arrive at your accommodation, all you need to do is take a shower and enjoy a well-deserved meal. Tomorrow is an easy day, no hiking involved!
Day 4 – Valbonë to Shkoder via Lake Komani
Today will be a long day, but a very enjoyable and quite relaxing one! Today you’ll cross the beautiful Lake Komani by ferry on your way back to Shkoder. Note that the lake isn’t exactly close to the lake, but the ferry company offers pick-up services to and from the ferry. You can book this service when you book your ticket for the ferry. Make sure to book a pick-up. There is no public transport and you don’t want to rely on hitchhiking when there is only one ferry a day.
The van will pick you up from your accommodation in Valbonë at about 10.30 am. The drive to Fierze takes around 2 hours and from here you will take a ferry across Lake Komani. This lake is actually part of a river and was created by the dams constructed on each side.
Once you arrive in Komani, there will be another van waiting for you to bring you to the center of Shkoder. They also do transfers to Tirana, but unless you’ve packed very lightly and have taken everything with you, you will need to stop in Shkoder to pick your things up and I believe there is no public transport from Shkoder to Tirana anymore at that time. So if you want to do this and your accommodation is close to the roundabout terminal, you can contact the company directly (WhatsApp numbers are available on the website) to ask if they go via Shkoder and if they can stop at your accommodation so you can pick up your luggage.
The Counterclockwise Itinerary for the Albanian Alps
Day 1 – Shkoder to Valbonë via Lake Komani
In order to get from Shkoder to the Lake Komani ferry, you need to book the pick-up service through them. There is no public transport that will take you there. You can book the pick-up when you book your ferry ticket. Do book this! We thought we could just catch it from the roundabout, but when we asked where it leaves from we were pointed to a bus that goes to the power plant in Koman. From here it’s still a 2k walk uphill to the ferry. Luckily the van from the ferry company past us and let us jump on. They explained that you need to book it in advance and we made sure to book the way back on the spot!
As the pick-up service is with the same company as the ferry, you’re guaranteed to make the ferry. We even had time for a coffee and a quick bite to eat before boarding the ferry. It takes about 2 hours to cross the lake, which is actually part of a river and created by dams constructed on either side.
Once you arrive in Fierze, there will be another van ready to take you to Valbonë. This trip also takes about 2 hours, So you’ll arrive in time to go for a stroll and take sunset pictures after you drop your stuff at your accommodation.
Day 2 – Hike
to Theth
Today is the big day! The hike from Valbonë to Theth is about 17 km and takes about 7 hours to complete. We did it in 6 hours but were unlucky with the weather. So we didn’t make many stops and stayed in a hotel about 3 km closer to Theth than Valbonë, giving us a headstart.
As it’s a long hike, which includes quite some elevation gain and loss, I recommend starting early. Especially if the weather is nice. There is no need to rush and there are plenty of nice places on the way for picture stops or for breaks in general. It looks like there are some places for food and drinks as well. They were closed when we were there, but you might be able to buy something during the high season. Do bring enough water and food with you just in case though! You don’t want to find yourself without food or water halfway through the hike.
Hiking from Valbonë to Theth means an easy start. The first 10 kilometers more or less are false flat. So not entirely flat, but only slightly uphill. Then it’s a steep uphill until you reach the top of the pass, and you get to enjoy the well-deserved beautiful views.
Heading down, you’ll still have some beautiful views over the mountains until you hit the forest. Here you’ll have some protection from the weather. Whether it’s the sun, wind, or rain you need hiding from. It’s a longer downhill than it was uphill (not counting the false flat part) but there are plenty of nice spots to take a break on your way down.
Day 3 (optional) – Hiking in Theth (skip if you only want 3 days)
If you still have the energy after yesterday, I recommend hiking to the Blue Eye today. It’s another long hike, but there is not as much elevation gain and loss, so it’s easier. On the way, you’ll pass Grunas Waterfall which is a nice stop as well. If you feel that hiking all the way to Blue Eye is too much, you can just turn around from here. Looking for something in between? Just keep walking along the river until you’re ready to turn around.
Day 4 – Theth to Shkoder
There is no regular public transport between Shkoder and Theth, but shared vans/cars can pick you up and drop you off in central Shkoder. Pick-up time in Theth is around 10 am, so enough time for breakfast.
We traveled back to Shkoder with Zef (Whatsapp +355 68 246 8693) who was great. You can also ask your accommodation to book a car for you or you can find more contact numbers here.
As you’ll arrive in Shkoder around noon, you’ll have plenty of time left to pick up the rest of your luggage and head to your next destination or to explore some of Shkoder. I recommend heading up to the castle in the afternoon and staying for sunset. The sign said it would close before sunset, but nobody came to kick us out, and people were still entering when we left.
Visiting the Albanian Alps as daytrips
If you don’t want to make the loop recommended in this itinerary for the Albanian Alps, it’s also possible to explore these places as day trips from Theth and Shkoder. As vans/cars between Shkoder and Theth only leave once a day in the morning, it’s not possible to do the hikes as day trips from Shkoder. You’ll need to base yourself in Theth for the hikes. Lake Komani can be visited as a day trip from Shkoder.
Lake Komani
You can visit the lake on a day trip from Shkoder with Berisha. They run both the ferry and the transport between Shkoder and the Komani port from where you’ll take the ferry. Note that the ferry runs roughly from April to the beginning of November and once a day. Check their page for the current schedule and price. You’ll need to book the van to the port in advance, which you can do while you book your ferry tickets.
Pick-up in Shkoder is about 2.5 hours before the ferry is scheduled to leave Koman, and the ride takes about 2 hours. So you’ll have time for a coffee and to go to the toilet if you need to. There is a toilet on the ferry as well. The ferry ride across the lake takes about 2 hours and you’ll have another 2 hours to enjoy a drink or a snack in the port of Fierze before heading back the same way.
Valbonë pass
As mentioned before, you’ll need to base yourself in Theth to hike the Valbonë pass as a day trip. Cars leave Shkoder at 7 am and arrive in Theth at around 9 am. So you can drop your luggage off and head off right away if you want to! Do bring a packed lunch in this case, as Theth doesn’t really have shops. We saw one, but it was closed most of the time. Another option is to ask your accommodation in advance if they offer packed lunches and can prepare one for you on the morning of your arrival.
The difference between hiking the Valbonë pass as part of the loop and as a day trip is that with the first you hike up on one side, and down the other. If you’re doing a day trip, you’ll head up and back down the same way. The most beautiful views are from the pass itself and the upper part of the trail, so you’re not missing out on a huge deal if you just hike back the same way.
Tip: You could technically do this hike as a day trip from Valbonë as well. This could make sense if the reason you don’t want to do the loop is because of luggage you need to take with you, or if you traveling with a car for example. Do note that Valbonë is further away from the pass than Theth though. It’s nearly twice as long (22 km in total for the return). It does save you almost 200 meters of elevation gain and loss, but unless you really have your mind set on hiking from Valbonë, I’d recommend hiking to the pass from Theth as it’s a lot shorter.
Grunas Waterfall and Blue Eye
The Blue eye and Gruna Waterfalls are another nice day hike from Theth. It’s another long hike, but there is not so much elevation gain and loss compared to the Valbonë pass hike, so it’s easier. On the way, you’ll pass Grunas Waterfall which is a nice stop as well.
If you feel that hiking all the way to Blue Eye is too much, you can just turn around from here. Looking for something in between? Just keep walking along the river until you’re ready to turn around.
This was: Make the most out of your trip to the Albanian Alps: A 4-day itinerary
If you’re looking for more tips of your trip to Albania, check out my Ultimate Travel Guide to Albania.