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A cloudy day at Machu Picchu still offers amazing views

Things to do in Peru: The ultimate travel guide

Planning a travel itinerary for Peru can be a bit daunting. There is just so much to do! Whether you need to fit everything into a short vacation from work, or have several months to go backpacking through Peru, it’s hard to make choices. Mountains, jungle, desert and of course lots of culture and history. Peru can offer just about everything you’re looking for to add to your itinerary.

In this ultimate travel guide for Peru I will help you pick the best things to do in Peru. It follows a route from north to south, with the described places color-coded as a must-visit, highly recommended and if time permits

Lama's at Machu Picchu

Table of Contents - Things to do in Peru: The ultimate travel guide

Traveling to Peru - Tips and tracks

Best time to visit: Peru’s rainy season is during its summer, from November to April. So if you’re planning on hiking in the mountains and/or visiting the jungle, it’s best to visit between May and October. There is of course no guarantee that you won’t get any rain visiting during the dry season. 😉 Peru’s coast has a desert climate, so it rarely rains here. During the dry season, it’s rather overcast, during the “rainy season” (in summer) it’s actually sunnier and very hot.

Currency: The local currency is Peruvian Soles. For current exchange rates, check XE.com

Transport: Getting around by bus is easy and buses are generally quite comfortable. Do note that not every city has a general terminal. In many cities bus companies have their own terminals, making it a little harder to ask around for prices. Plus, if there is no direct connection to where you want to go, it’s likely that you need to take a taxi to another terminal.

Look up bus scheudules and prices, you can use a page like Busbud or Redbus. Cruz del Sur is the most popular company amongst backpackers, but I have to say I found Oltursa was often cheaper and better. I wouldn’t worry too much about just traveling with these companies though. Cheaper companies are perfectly fine too. 

As Peru is a big country, you might want to look at domestic flights to get from one place to another too. 

ATMs: For me the BCP atm was free to use. It depends on your card though, so just try a couple others if this one is charging you. 

Cheap eats: A Menu del dia (menu of the day) is the way to go. A menu typically consists of a starter (a soup) a main dish with rice, beans, salad and meat and sometimes a drink. They generally range from 5-8 soles but can be a little more expensive in some places. Markets are usually the best places to score a cheap meal. 

Getting to Peru

As Peru is such a popular tourist destination, it’s very well connected both by air and land.

By plane: Both Lima and Cusco receive many international flights. Lima lies about halfway the country, so if you want to do a route from South to North, Cusco has a more convenient location. Do note that Cusco lies at an altitude of 3.400 meters. So if you are flying in from sea level, make sure to plan some extra time to acclimatize. 

By bus: You can enter Peru overland from Ecuador, Chile, and Bolivia. If you’re coming from Ecuador, the Aguas Verdes en La Tina borders are the most conventional. Which one is more convenient depends on where you’re coming from. Aguas Verdes is the most popular among tourists. If you’re coming from Bolivia you can cross the border at Lake Titicaca and if you’re coming from Chile look for a bus heading to Tacna. From here you’ll be able to find busses heading to popular tourist destinations in Peru.

By Boat: It’s possible to enter Peru through the Amazon by boat. Both Leticia in Colombia and Manaus in Brazil are linked to Iquitos by boat. Note that this is not a popular/touristic route. Boats are slow, don’t go every day, and are not the most comfortable. These routes are also used for smuggling drugs, so it’s not the safest way to enter Peru. Make sure you investigate well and know what you’re getting into if you want to cross the Peruvian border by boat.

Things to do in Peru: The North Coast

Peru’s north coast is mostly a surfer’s destination. The coastline is dotted with towns with excellent surfing opportunities, ranging from laid-back to party places.  The main surf season in the North of Peru is from October to March, so this is when it’s busiest here. Other than that you can also chill on the beach and visit archeological sites.

Máncora

Máncora is known as a surf and party town at the North coast of Peru. For this reason I didn’t think I was going to like it much. But I wanted to see some beach before heading to the mountains, without having to head too far south. So I decided to make a stop there. I got here off-season and I actually really enjoyed it! There is not much to do in town, but it’s nice to spend a few days on the beach, going for a surf and/or party.

If you’re here to party, you’ll probably enjoy staying at Wild Rover or Loki, two of Peru’s hostel chains known for their parties. If you prefer a quieter place but still want to be close to the action for when you feel like it, look at Psygon Surf Camp or Misfit

And if you’re all about surfing and nothing about partying, nearby Lobitos might actually be a better fit for you. 

Huanchaco

Huanchaco is a quiet town on the coast. There is a beach, but it really isn’t a great one. So if you’re heading here only for the beach, you’ll be disappointed. Huanchaco is close to the ChanChan ruins and good for surfing though, so if that’s what you’re after it’s a nice place to spend a few days.

The ChanChan ruins are interesting, as they are very different from the other popular archeological sites in Peru. Your ticket includes access to three more sites in Trujillo and is valid for 2 days. So either get up early and fit it all in one day, or spread your visits over 2 days.

A gorgeous sunset at Huanchaco
A gorgeous sunset at Huanchaco

How to get to Huanchaco

From Mancora: Oltursa is going directly to Trujillo, which is only a bus-/taxiride away from Huanchaco. The ride to Trujillo takes about 10 hours. When you get to Trujillo, you will most likely be told that the only way to Huanchaco is by taxi. This is not true however, there is a bus going for only 2 soles (2019) just a couple of blocks away (see map).

From Lima: Direct busses between Lima and Trujillo take about 11 hours. Note that Lima is known for it’s bad traffic though, so this could potentially be longer.

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Things to do in Peru: Central and North Peru

This part of Peru is very diverse and you’ll find many things to do. From hiking in the Andes to touring the jungle and visiting lesser-known archeological sites. Most of these ruins are a little more challenging to get to than the ones close to Cusco, so make sure you plan plenty of time for your visit. I skipped them this time and just focussed on the archeological sites in Cusco for that reason.

Huaraz

Huaraz is an absolute hikers’ paradise. When coming from a low altitude (like the coast for example) you’ll want to spend at least 2-3 days here taking it relatively easy before heading off to any big hikes. There is not much to do in the city itself, but there are a few acclimatization hikes you can do from the city before doing one of the bigger ones. Some examples are Laguna Churup, Laguna Wilcacocha, and the Wilcahuain ruins. If you’re looking for an even easier day, the Monterrey hot springs are located just out of the city and accessible by public transport (don’t expect too much of them though). 

Hiking in Huaraz is one fo the most amazing things to do in Peru
Hiking in Huaraz is an absolute must when in Peru

Dayhikes from Huaraz

Laguna 69: This is the most popular day hike from Huaraz. It is a stunning, but quite long climb up, so make sure you’re acclimatized before attempting this one. This is the most popular day hike from Huaraz, and not accessible by public transport. This means that besides there being a lot of people, everyone will arrive at the same time as well. So be prepared for the ant-trail. If you want to see laguna 69 without that many people, consider a 2-day hike with overnight camping at Laguna 69.

Laguna 69. one of the most popular destinations in Huaraz, Peru
Enjoying the views over Laguna 69 after a though hike

Glacier Pastoruri: A much shorter hike than Laguna 69, but at a higher altitude. Visiting Glacier Pastoruri doesn’t require a lot of hiking, which makes it easier. You’ll get up to 5.000 m however, so acclimatization is a must. Getting right up close to a glacier is awesome, and the views during the walk there are just as impressive.

Just a heads up that almost everyone gets a killing headache back in Huaraz, as the descent on the drive back is about 3000m, so this is a lot for the body to process. Don’t let this stop you from the hike though, just have some painkillers prepared in case you need them. Glacier Pastoruri is also not accessible by public transport, so unless you have your own transport, you’ll need to join a tour.

View of the Pastoruri
Glacier Pastoruri

Multiple day hikes from Huaraz

Santa Cruz – 4-5 days: This is the most popular one. Unfortunately I didn’t have time to to both this one and the Huayhuash and choose the latter. If you don’t want to do the Huayhuash, you should at least look into Santa Cruz.

Huayhuash – 8-12 daysThe Huayhuash trek is one of my favorite treks of all times! It leads through a beautiful mountain landscape, with an ever-changing landscape and incredible views over snow-capped mountain peaks and glaciers. If you have the time and energy for this hike, do not skip it!

It is possible to do this hike without a guide, but do know that you will have to carry your food + cooking supplies for the whole 8 days with you. You can boil water from the rivers for drinking water and cooking. As far as I know, there is no public transport to the start of the track, but agencies can take you for a fee.

The trail leads through the land of local communities and you have to pay a fee in order to enter their land. These fees are not included in tour prices and add up to quite a lot. Check out Mont Blanc for cheap tours. Don’t forget to tip the guide and donkey herder, at these prices they won’t receive a high salary.

Panoramic view on the Huayhuash trek, the most beautiful hike in Peru
One of the many amazing views on the Huayhuash trek

Hiking with a tour or independently – As I’d never done an 8-day hike before, nor a multiple day hike on these kind of altitudes, I booked a tour and for me it was definitely worth it. The rainy season was already starting and the hike was challenging enough as it was with just the day pack. Donkeys carried the camping gear, food, and cooking supplies for us and I was very, very grateful for that. I think those extra kilos would have really made this hike a lot harder. Also, it was quite nice to be able to group together in the big tent and have some popcorn and tea while it was raining outside. We met some people on the trail who hiked without a tour and they ended up having to cook in the bathroom and spend the afternoons in their tents.

How to get to Huaraz

From Huanchaco: In order to get from Huanchao to Huaraz, take a combi or taxi from Huanchaco to the Terrapuerto Busterminal in Trujillo. From there there are direct (night)busses taking you to Huaraz in about 7-8h.

From Lima: As this is a popular route, mulitple companies run this route. It takes about 8 hours to travel between the two by bus.

Lima

Not many people love Lima, and I have to say I’m not a fan either. If you want to get to know the city, 1-2 days are enough. If you love surfing, you could entertain yourself a little longer here.

Most people stay in Miraflores, so I just followed their advice and only looked for hostels over there. Miraflores does indeed feel safe (do still pay attention though, it is still part of a huge capital city), and has some nice green spots. But overall it felt quite fake and western to me, and by Peruvian standards it’s expensive. I enjoyed the nearby neighborhood of Barranco more. Here you’ll find lots of bars and restaurants and it’s nice to walk around.

Take a free walking tour of Lima’s center and that’s really all you need to see in Lima. More so if on a tight schedule.

The barranco neighbourhood of Lima
Barranco - Lima

How to get to Lima

From Huaraz: There are direct busses during the day and night bringing you from Huaraz to Lima in around about 8h.

From anywhere: As Lima is the capital, you won’t have trouble finding a way to get here. There are many bus lines heading to Lima, and if you’re coming from far away, the airport is well connected too. 

The Amazon Rainforest

The Amazon rainforest spreads over several countries, and Peru is one of them. If you want to visit the Amazon in Peru, Iquitos is the easiest spot to start from. It’s not necessarily the best though, as it’s very commercialized. 

Iquitos is an interesting city, as it is the biggest city in the world not accessible by road. It’s only connected to some nearby towns by road and clearly the commercial center for locals. In order to get the jungle experience, you’ll need to move away from the city. Do some shopping around for tours, as there are lots of agencies offering similar ones. A lot of them seem to black-mouth others rather than just focus on their own strengths, so don’t listen to that too much. I won’t recommend the tour I went with, as I believe there are better ones out there. So just do some research on the internet, speak to some people you meet traveling, and speak to some agencies. I can recommend the hostel I stayed at however: the Flying dog hostel offers the best price-quality in Iquitos.

Wooly monkey in the amazon, iquitos. A not to be missed destination in Peru
A Wooly Monkey in the Amazon

How to get to Iquitos

From Lima: There are cheap flights connecting the 2 cities, especially when booked in advance. Use Skyscanner to find and book cheap flights

From Leticia: Slow boats will take you there in a few days. Put your hammock up and enjoy the river views for a few days. Note that this is not a touristic route, nor are these boats very comfortable to travel on so make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into before you decide to do this.

From Cusco: There are flights to and from Cusco as well, but they are generally more expensive than from Lima.

Things to do in Peru: The South Coast

The south coast has a desert climate, so expect a dry and barren landscape. There is a famous little oasis here in the middle of the desert though, and you’ll find nature reserves with wildlife too. The Nazca lines are also located along the south coast of Peru.

Paracas

Paracas is home to a national reserve (la Reserva Nacional de Paracas) and the Islas Ballestas. The Islas Ballesetas are also known as the ‘Poor man’s Galapagos’ of Peru. But don’t get too excited, visiting these islands is not going to be the same as visiting the Galapagos. You will get to see a lot of sea lions, penguins, and other birds, but that’s as far as the similarities go. In order to visit these islands, you’ll need to join a tour. It’s not possible to set foot on the islands, you’ll stay in the boat.

La Reserva Nacional de Paracas is pretty, but I enjoyed the islands more. As both tours take half a day, it’s possible to either visit both in one day or visit the reserve in the afternoon when you arrive and the islands the next morning before leaving. The reserve is rather big, but if you don’t want to take a tour you can rent a bike and explore on your own too. Don’t forget that it’s a desert, meaning it gets hot and there is almost no shade. Bring plenty of water and sunscreen if you’re going biking here.

Paracas Backpackers house is a nice and fairly quiet place to stay for a night or 2. Party seekers tend to go to Kokopelli, as these are generally party hostels. The one in Paracas is pretty quiet, however. 

Pelicans at Islas Ballistas, Paracas, Peru
Pelicans at the Islas Ballestas

How to get to Paracas

From Lima: Direct busses take about 4 hours to complete the trip between Lima and Paracas

Huacachina

Huacachina is a tiny oasis in the desert, close to the city of Ica. It’s super touristy, expensive, and very tiny with not much to do other than sandboarding and partying. Huacachina is cool for a day, but I wouldn’t want to spend more time here. If you do want to spend an extra day and you’re looking for something to do, you can go pisco tasting in nearby Ica or just chill at the pool of your accommodation.

The most popular hostel choice here is Banana’s Adventures, which is a little pricier, but includes one activity a day. Hostel Desert Nights is a cheaper and quieter alternative and includes access to the pool of their hotel across the road. The Wild Rover chain is also present here.

Sunset views over the dunes at Huacachina
Sunset views over the dunes at Huacachina

How to get to Huacachina

From Paracas: There are direct transfers which will cost you about the same as a bus to Ica and a taxi to Huacachina when traveling alone. Transfers can be arranged at your hostel or as part of a package with a tour. If you’re traveling with a group, you might save a little by going by bus to Ica and taking a taxi to Huacachina from there. The bus to Ica takes about 1.5 hours.

From Lima: Direct busses leave Lima for Ica every hour. The trip is supposed to take about 5 hours, depending on the traffic in Lima.

From Cusco: There are direct buses to Ica, that take about 18 hours. From here you’ll need to take a taxi to Huacachina.

Arequipa

Not quite coast anymore, it’s a good last stop before heading up to Cusco. Arequipa lies at about 2.300m above sea level, making it a good stop to acclimatize. The city itself is nice, but I had higher expectations of it. You can visit the Santa Catalina Monastary, see the mummy Juanita in the Museo Santuarios Andinos and of course take a free walking tour of the city. There’s a little rooftop terras located on the main square that offers 2-4-1 drinks and amazing sunset views. When facing the cathedral, it’s on your left. If there is nobody downstairs trying to get people up, just ask for the rooftop.

Arequipa is one of the top tourist destinations in Peru
Sunset views from the rooftop bar in Arequipa

Colca Canyon

The most popular thing to do in Arequipa is hiking in the Colca Canyon. The Colca Canyon is one of the deepest canyons in the world and a beautiful place. If you’re lucky, you can even spot condors here.

It’s possible to go on your own, without a tour,  but it seemed like a lot of hassle. Looking up accommodation beforehand, I only found expensive options, so I decided to take a tour instead. A few different tours are offered, but the 2-day one is the most common. Day 1 is quite easy, as you’ll be going down the canyon and walking a little once you’re down. Day 2 is a little more challenging, as you’ll be climbing back up. Tours start hiking early so you don’t have to climb up in the burning sun, but it’s still a challenge (definitely not impossible however!). Just take it easy and make a few stops to enjoy the views.

Views over the colca canyon during the hike
THe beautiful and impressive Colca Canyon

Tip: The tour agencies taking you to the Colca Canyon are known to provide very little food. You’ll get your three meals, but the portions are small. So make sure to bring some snacks with you.

How to get to Arequipa

From Huacachina: You’ll first need to take a taxi to Ica. From Ica there are direct busses to Arequipa that take about 12 – 13 hours.

From Lima: Buses leave regularly throughout the day, roughly every 30-60 minutes. The trip takes about 5 hours.

From Cusco: Overnight busses leave Cusco in the evening, arriving in Arequipa in the morning. This trip takes about 10 hours.

Things to do in Peru: Cusco Region

If I could only pick one destination in Peru, I would pick Cusco. This region is just so beautiful and magical. Of course the first thing that will pop up in your mind when thinking about Cusco, is Machu Picchu. But there are many more archeological sites worth a visit here. The mountain landscape is just stunning too, so it’s a great hiking destination too.

Cusco City

Cusco is amazing, and you’ll definitely want to spend some time here. I didn’t think I would like it as much as it’s obviously very touristy, but Cusco handles the crowds well. Make sure you take it easy your first days and acclimatize as Cusco lies at an altitude of about 3.400 meters. So use the first days to go for a stroll around the city, do a free walking tour and explore the market. Then do some easy hikes in the sacred valley exploring some Inca ruins before venturing out on more challenging hikes. Lake Humantay and Rainbow Mountain are popular day trips from Cusco too. 

Being a popular destination, Cusco has lots of accommodation options to offer. I stayed at Blacky hostel which offers great value for money and is a very social place. If you’re looking to party, Wild Rover might be your place to be. Looking for something in between? Check out Hostel Supertramp (they have a location in Aguas Calientes as well). 

Cusco is the top tourist location ni Peru
Cusco's central Plaza de Armas

Lake Humantay

Lake Humantay is a beautiful lake close to Cusco. It’s a great way to spend an acclimatization day, as it doesn’t require a lot of walking. Many agencies offer tours here, so shop around for a good price. If you’re doing to Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu, you’ll visit Humantay on your first day of the trek.

Visiting Lake Humantay is one of the best things to do in Peru and included in the Salkantay Trek
If you're not doing the salkantay trek to Machu Picchu, it's worth doing a day trip to Lake Humantay

Rainbow Mountain and Palccoyo Mountain

Rainbow Mountain is the most popular day trip from Cusco. A lot of people had warned me that there are so many people, it makes it hard to enjoy it. As I was there during shoulder season and the weather wasn’t great (the few days before the mountain was covered in snow and it wasn’t possible to see anything), I thought it would probably not be as bad. But it was as bad…

The good news is that there is another colored mountain close to Cusco, which is probably more worth it: Palccoyo. It’s less of a walk and not as high as Rainbow Mountain, but it only sees a fraction of the crowds and has the same colors.

I was actually planning on visiting Palccoyo, but due to the weather, I went to Rainbow Mountain. Palccoyo is not as high as Rainbow Mountain, so it was more likely that Palccoyo was completely covered in snow than Rainbow Mountain. It was true that only half of Rainbow Mountain was covered in snow. The colors were pretty dull though, as it was very overcast and there were just too many people there on a small trail to really enjoy the place.

Rainbow Mountain_Reality
Reality at Rainbow Mountain

The Sacred Valley

The Sacred Vally is a valley close to Cusco. It was home to the Inca’s and you’ll find many archeological sites here like Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Moray and  Chinchero. All of these can be visited with the Tourist Ticket Circuit 3, which can be bought on-site at all 3 locations and is valid for 2 days. You can join a day trip from Cusco, but these trips are very rushed. I visited the Sacred Valley independently over 2 days, and was really happy I did it that way. 

Pisac is one of the best archeological sites to visit in the Sacred Valley
Pisac is the biggest archeological site in the Sacred Vally, and my personal favorite

Machu Picchu

To visit Machu Picchu you have several options on how to get there and entry tickets to buy which affects the cost as well. In order to give you a complete overview with all the information you need to plan your visit, I wrote a separate blogpost with all you need to know about visiting Machu Picchu.

View over Machu Picchu. the most popular destination in Peru
A cloudy day at Machu Picchu still offers amazing views

Other Things to do in Peru

One of the biggest ones I left out is Nazca. If you really want to see and enjoy Nazca, you have to take a flight. As that didn’t quite fit my budget at the time, I decided to skip it. You can find cheap flights however, just do a bit of research to make sure the company is a reliable one. If you want to see something of Nazca without a flight, it is possible to see the Lizard from a viewpoint. It is the least attractive figue however, with the Panamerica road going right through it and I’ve been told it’s not worth going to Nazca just to see this one.

There are a few more impressive archeological sites in Peru I didn’t get to see, like Kuelap and Choquequirao.

Lake Titicaca is shared between Peru and Bolivia. I followed everyone’s advice and visited the Bolivian side. I was incredibly disappointed with Isla del Sol however and would probably have preferred the Peruvian side as it offers a lot more culture. Do keep in mind that a lot of what you will see is set up for tourists of course.

This was Things to do in Peru: The ultimate travel guide

A jungle tour in the Amazon is one of the top things to do in Peru
Sunset in the Amazon Rainforest